Meadows Granny Square Cardigan (Sizes 2T–5XL)

The Meadows Granny Square Cardigan is a timeless, motif-based crochet cardigan designed for comfort, versatility, and size inclusivity. Worked from simple granny squares and joined into a wearable garment, this pattern is written for sizes 2T through 5XL.

This cardigan is designed to be approachable for confident beginners while still enjoyable for experienced crocheters who love a relaxing, repetitive motif project. The construction allows for flexibility in color placement, making each cardigan completely unique.

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Difficulty Level

This is an Intermediate pattern. Basic crochet stiches are used, but involved seaming is needed.

Hook Size & Notions

• 4.5mm crochet hook

• 4mm crochet hook

• Tapestry needle

• Scissors

• Stitch Markers

• Optional Buttons

Yarn

Yarn Requirements

Total amount of Light/DK weight (3) yarn:

2T-4T: 276 g (690 m / 755 yd)

6T-8: 400 g (1000 m / 1093 yd)

10-XS: 552 g (1380 m / 1509 yd)

S-M: 688 g (1720 m / 1881 yd)

L-XL: 888 g (2220 m / 2428 yd)

2XL-3XL: 1008 g (2520 m / 2756 yd)

4XL-5XL: 1208 g (3020 m / 3303 yd)

You need approximately:

65 (90) 125 (155) 200 (230) 275 g

163 (225) 313 (388) 500 (575) 688 m

178 (246) 342 (424) 547 (629) 752 yds

for seaming and the border. Subtract this from the total amount of yarn needed for your size and divide the remaining by the number of colors you are using to determine how much of each color is needed.

Yarn Details

Child Sample:

Hobbii Acacai Yarn: 51% acrylic 49% cotton, light weight (3); 250 m (273.4 yd) per 100 g (3.53 oz)

Adult Sample:

Lion Brand Cottino Yarn: 55% Cotton 45% Superwash Merino Wool, DK weight (3); 271 m (296 yd) per 100g (3.5 oz)

Yarn Substitutions

This pattern is designed specifically for DK weight yarn only. Using a different weight will change the drape, sizing, and finished measurements of the cardigan.

If you’re substituting yarn, look for a smooth DK (light worsted / category 3) yarn with good stitch definition.

Recommended Substitutions:

• Berroco Modern DK (great match for structure, my personal favorite for summer garments and great stitch definition)

• Knit Picks Cotlin (super soft cotton + linen blend)

• Knit Picks Woolen Cotton Yarn (for a warmer, more luxurious feel option)

A Note on Fiber Choice:

Even within DK weight yarns, fiber content will change the final look and feel of your cardigan. Wool blends will add warmth and elasticity, while cotton blends will create a more structured, breathable fabric.

If you're unsure how different fibers behave, you can read more here:
👉 Yarn Fibers Explained

Understanding fiber behavior will help you choose better substitutions and get results closer to the original design.

Sizes

2T-4T (6T-8) 10-XS (S-M) L-XL (2XL-3XL) 4XL-5XL

Finished Measurements

Centimeters
Bust: 50 (61) 68 (82) 96 (117) 131 cm
Cardigan Length: 38 (45) 52 (59) 66 (73) 73 cm
Sleeve Length: 31 (38) 38 (45) 45 (52) 52 cm

Inches
Bust: 20 (24) 27 (32) 38 (46) 52 in
Cardigan Length: 15 (17.5) 20.5 (23) 26 (28.5) 28.5 in
Sleeve Length: 12 (15) 15 (18) 18 (20.5) 20.5 in

Gauge

Each motif should measure approximately 7cm by 7cm (2.75" by 2.75").

If gauge is not met, adjust hook size as needed to achieve the correct measurements.

👉Learn about crochet pattern gauge here

Abbreviations

BLO - back loop only

ch(s) - chain(s)

dc - double crochet

ps - puff stitch

rep - repeat

rnd - round

sc - single crochet

sk - skip

sl st - slip stitch

SM - stitch marker

sp(s) - space(s)

st(s) - stitch(s)

tr - treble (triple) crochet

yo - yarn over

( ) - work the group of stitches all in the same stitch or space

** - repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed

(These are US crochet terms from the Craft Yarn Council)

Special Stitches & Techniques

Invisible Join

1. Cut the working end of your yarn and pull it up and through the last stitch that was worked.

2. Thread the tail of yarn through a tapestry needle.

3. Skip the first stitch, insert your tapestry needle into the second stitch from front to back through both loops of the stitch, pull yarn through.

4. Insert your tapestry needle from front to back into the back loop only of the stitch the yarn is originating from, pull yarn through.

5. Securely weave in your ends.

👉I have full video tutorial and blog post on how to create an invisible join.

How to Make a Magic Circle

The magic circle is an essential crochet technique that helps eliminate holes in projects worked in the round.

👉I have a full blog post and a step-by-step video tutorial to guide you through the process.

Puff Stitch (ps)

1. Yo, insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).

2. Yo, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook).

3. Yo, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop (7 loops on hook).

4. Yo, pull through 6 loops on hook (2 loops on hook).

5. Yo, pull through 2 loops on hook.

Treble/Triple Crochet (tr)

1. Yarn over twice.

2. Insert hook into the indicated stitch.

3. Yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).

4. Yarn over and pull through first 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook).

5. Yarn over and pull through first 2 loops on hook (2 loops on hook).

6. Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops.

Video Tutorial

Pattern Notes

• The cardigan is constructed from individual square motifs, which are seamed together after all motifs are completed.

• The right side of each motif is the side that faces you while you are working it.

• A chain 3 at the beginning of a round or row counts as one double crochet.

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Pattern

Flower Motif

Make the following number of motifs:

• 2T-4T: 69

• 6T-8: 100

• 10-XS: 138

• S-M: 172

• L-XL: 222

• 2XL-3XL: 252

• 4XL-5XL: 304

Using a 4.5 mm crochet hook, make a magic circle

Rnd 1 ch 3, dc 11 times into magic circle, pull to close magic circle, sl st in top of initial ch 3 {12 sts}

Rnd 2 ch 1, ps in same st, ch 1, ps in next st, ch 1 rep around, sl st in top of first ps {12 ps, 12 ch-1 sps}

Rnd 3 ch 3, (dc, tr, ch 1, tr, dc) in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st rep a total of 3 times, (dc, tr, ch 1, tr, dc) in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp {36 sts, 4 ch-1 sps}

Fasten off using an invisible join.

Weave in ends.

Seaming

Arrange the squares following the layout shown in the images below the written pattern (scroll to the bottom).

With the cardigan laid out according to the diagrams, work either all vertical seams or all horizontal seams first. This is because “broken” seams can be difficult to join neatly, while working each seam continuously creates a cleaner finish.

If the sleeve seams align with the body seams of the cardigan, continue seaming the sleeves directly into the body seam in one continuous pass.

If the sleeve seams do not align with the body seams, seam the sleeves separately from the cardigan body, then follow the “Sleeve Seaming Instructions” to attach the sleeves to the cardigan body.

Seaming the Motifs (Flat Slip Stitch Join)

Use a 4.5 mm crochet hook for all seaming.

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

To seam the motifs together, arrange all motifs with the right sides facing up (toward you).

Beginning in the ch-1 spaces of two adjacent motifs, insert your hook from top to bottom through both ch-1 spaces. With the working yarn positioned underneath the motifs, yarn over and pull up a loop through both ch-1 spaces and the slip knot on your hook.

Continue seaming by working through the back loops only of each corresponding stitch.

Insert your hook from top to bottom through the back loop of the next stitch on each motif and continue across the edge.

After working across the edge of the motifs, seam into the ch-1 spaces of the opposite corner.

When you reach a junction between motifs, ch 1.

To join a new motif, begin in the ch-1 corner spaces of the adjacent motifs. Seam through each ch-1 space, then work through the back loops only of each stitch along the edges of the motifs.

Finish by seaming through the final ch-1 spaces.

At the end of each seam, fasten off and weave in ends.

When working seams in the opposite direction, seam as normal. When you reach a junction between seams, work a ch 1 over the existing seam before continuing.

Sleeve Seaming Instructions

These instructions apply only to sizes in which the sleeve seams do not align with the body seams (2T-4T, S-M, L-XL, 4XL-5XL). For all other sizes, work the sleeve seams continuously with the body seams.

Use stitch markers to attach the sleeves to the edge of the cardigan. Pin the center stitch of the center sleeve motif to the last slip stitch of the seam where the cardigan folds between the front and back panels.

Along the edge where the sleeve meets the body of the cardigan, the center stitch of each motif should align with a slip stitch along the edge of a seam.

Beginning in the ch-1 space of the sleeve motif, insert your hook from top to bottom. Then insert your hook from top to bottom through the back loop only of the corresponding center stitch of the adjacent motif.

Continue seaming through the back loops only of the stitches along the edges of the motifs. When you reach a seam, insert your hook through both loops of the slip stitch along the edge of the seam and through the back loop only of the corresponding center stitch of the adjacent motif.

When you reach the end of the seam, work through the final ch-1 space and the center stitch of the adjacent motif.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Seaming the Cardigan

With the wrong side of the cardigan facing toward you, fold the front panels over the back panel. The front panels should lie flush along the edges of the back panel, and the bottoms of the sleeves should align evenly.

Seam up the sides of the cardigan and continue toward the sleeve cuffs in the same manner used for joining the motifs, working through each ch-1 space and through the back loops only of each stitch.

When a seam is encountered, insert your hook through the end slip stitches of both adjacent seams. Yarn over and pull through both slip stitches and the loop on your hook.

When you reach the underarm, note that for sizes 2T–4T, S–M, L–XL, and 4XL–5XL (where the sleeve seams do not align with the body of the cardigan), seam the armpit as you have been working: through each stitch, ch-1 space, and the end slip stitches of the seams.

For all other sizes, there will be three motifs and two seams coming together at the underarm. Seam through the first ch-1 spaces, the first two seams, the next ch-1 spaces, the next seams, and the final ch-1 spaces. Continue seaming toward the sleeve cuff.

Borders

All edging is worked with right side facing unless otherwise stated.

Bottom Border

Using a 4.5 mm crochet hook, join yarn in the bottom left corner ch-1 space of the cardigan (left side as if worn).

Row 1 (Foundation Round)

Work 1 single crochet (sc) in:

• Each ch-1 space

• Each stitch along the bottom edge

• Each seam join along the bottom

This creates a clean, even foundation edge.

Chain 7, and follow instructions for “Crochet Ribbing”.

Collar Construction

Using a 4.5 mm crochet hook, join new yarn in the bottom right corner of the cardigan, in a stitch that belongs to the bottom ribbing edge.

Round 1 (Base Collar Round)

Work 1 sc in each of the following:

• Each stitch of the ribbing

• Each ch-1 space along the cardigan edge

• Each stitch along the motif edges

• Each seam up the side of the cardigan

Corner / Transition Shaping

When reaching the intersection between the side seam and collar edge, work:

• 1 sc in ch-1 space

• 1 sc in seam join

• 1 sc in adjacent motif ch-1 space

• 1 sc in next seam

• 1 sc in next ch-1 space

This helps distribute stitches evenly around the neckline transition and prevents pulling.

Continue Collar Round

Continue working sc evenly along the back of the collar.

Repeat the same corner shaping sequence at the opposite collar intersection.

Continue sc down the opposite front edge of the cardigan.

At the end of the collar edge:

If you choose to add buttons, place stitch markers evenly along the right front border to indicate desired button placement,

Chain 7 and follow instructions for ”Crochet ribbing”. When a stitch marker is reached when working the ribbing, follow “Button Instructions”

Sleeve Cuffs

Using a 4 mm crochet hook, join yarn in any stitch along the sleeve cuff edge.

Round 1 (Foundation Round)

Work 1 sc in each of the following:

• Each ch-1 space

• Each stitch along cuff edge

• Each seam along cuff edge

Join with a slip stitch to first sc.

Round 2 (Decrease Round)

Work as follows:

• Size 2T–4T: sc in next 3 stitches, sc2tog repeat around

• Sizes 6T-8, 10-XS, S-M, L-XL, 2XL-3XL, 4XL-5XL: sc in next stitch, sc2tog repeat around

Join with a slip stitch in top of first stitch.

Chain 5 (5) 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 and follow instructions for “Crochet Ribbing”.

Crochet Ribbing

1. Chain specified number of stitches.

2. Single crochet in the second chain from hook, and in each remaining chain.

3. Slip stitch into the next 2 stitches along the sleeve cuffs, collar, or bottom of sweater.

4. Turn your work so you are working back up the single crochet stitches that were just made. Skip the two slip stitches, then single crochet in the back loops only of each single crochet stitch. Single crochet through both loops of the final single crochet stitch, chain 1, and turn.

5. Working back down the single crochet stitches that were just made, single crochet through both loops of the first stitch, then single crochet in the back loops only of the remaining stitches.

6. Repeat steps 3 - 5 until each stitch along the sleeve cuffs, collar, or bottom of the sweater has been slip stitched into.

NOTE: When there is an even number of stitches, you will end up with 1 extra stitch to slip stitch into instead of 2. Slip stitch into this final stitch, turn your work to work back up the previous row of single crochet stitches, skip the 1 slip stitch, back loop only single crochet in each stitch, single crochet through both loops of the final stitch.

Fasten off.

For the sleeve cuffs, whip stitch the first and the last row together to close, then weave in ends.

Button Instructions

When you encounter a SM on a row working towards the edge of the cardigan, use the following 2 rows in place of the crochet ribbing instructions:

Row 1 (this is the row containing the SM) sc in first 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next 2 sts along the edge of the cardigan, turn

Row 2 (this is the row after the row containing the SM) sk 2 sl sts, sc in first 2 sts, sc 2 times in ch 2 sp, sc in final 2 sts, ch 1, turn

When you encounter a SM on a row working away from the edge of the cardigan, use the following 2 rows in place of the crochet ribbing instructions:

Row 1 (this is the row containing the SM) sk 2 sl sts, sc in first 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in final 2 sts, ch 1, turn

Row 2 (this is the row after the row containing the SM) sc in first 2 sts, sc 2 times in ch 2 sp, sc in final 2 st2, sl st in next 2 sts along the edge of the cardigan

For each buttonhole on the right side of the cardigan, sew a button in the matching spot on the left side so they line up when the cardigan is buttoned.

Weave in all ends.

Share Your Work!

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Pattern Support

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More Inspiration

Looking for more floral inspired crochet projects? You might also like:
1. Meadows Blanket

2. Meadows Pan Savers

3. Meadows Pocket Scarf