Giant Crochet Spider Pattern: Cute & Spooky Halloween Decor

Handmade giant crochet spider with soft plush body and long legs, perfect for Halloween decor.

Looking for a fun and slightly spooky crochet project this Halloween? This free giant crochet spider pattern is the perfect mix of creepy and cuddly! With its oversized body, long legs, and soft plush feel, this handmade spider makes a playful addition to your Halloween decor—or a surprisingly huggable plushie for kids and adults alike. Made with simple stitches and beginner-friendly construction, this Halloween crochet spider works up faster than you’d think and is sure to be a crowd favorite at parties, craft fairs, or cozy nights on the couch.

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Video Tutorial

Difficulty

This is an easy level pattern. This pattern uses a simple stitch pattern and basic shaping

Finished Measurements

The spider is 54 cm (21”) long and 34 cm (13”) wide.

Each leg measures 27 cm (10.5”) in length.

Yarn

You will need the following amounts of a worsted weight (4) yarn held double:

  • meters: 1050

  • yards: 1150

Sample was made using Hobbii Fluffy Day yarn. Fluffy Day is a 100% acrylic, worsted weight (4) yarn that contains 285 meters (312 yards) per 100 grams (3.5 oz).

You will also need a small amount of lace weight (1) black cotton yarn and white cotton yarn, or embroidery thread.

These are a few yarns that would also work for the Couch Potato Spider:

1. Bernat Blanket Yarn

  • Why It Works: This super bulky, chenille-style yarn is soft, plush, and works up quickly.

  • Price Range: Bargain

  • Note: Bernat Blanket Yarn is a super bulky yarn so you do not have to hold it double for the pattern. Remeber to check gauge.

2. Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick

  • Why It Works: A classic super bulky yarn with an 80% acrylic, 20% wool blend, offering warmth and softness for cozy projects.

  • Price Range: Mid-range

  • Note: This is another super bulky yarn where you would not have to hold the yarn double.

3. Red Heart Hygge Yarn

  • Why It Works: An ultra-cozy, bulky weight yarn with a short fur end, perfect for creating soft, textured projects.

  • Price Range: Mid-range

Hook Size and Notions

Pattern Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain(s)

PM - place marker

rep – repeat

rnd(s) - round(s)

sc – single crochet

sc2tog - single crochet two together

sk - skip

sl st – slip stitch

SM - stitch marker

st(s) – stitch(es)

yo – yarn over

( ) - work a group of stitches all in the same stitch or space

** – repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed

These are US crochet terms from the Craft Yarn Council standards.

Special Stitches & Techniques

Invisible Join

1. Cut the working end of your yarn and pull it up and through the last stitch that was worked.

2. Thread the tail of yarn through a tapestry needle.

3. Skip the first stitch, insert your tapestry needle into the second stitch from front to back through both loops of the stitch, pull yarn through.

4. Insert your tapestry needle from front to back into the back loop only of the stitch the yarn is originating from, pull yarn through.

5. Securely weave in your ends.

I have full video tutorial and blog post on how to create an invisible join.

How to crochet even circles

For simplicity, this pattern is written with increases in the round stacked on top of each other. However, to create smooth, even circles without bumps, you should vary the number of starting stitches in each round before the first increase.

This is a great technique you should be using for any amigurumi or crochet toy pattern and it is very simple once you try it.

I have a full blog post and video tutorial to guide you through the process.

How to Make a Magic Cirlce

The magic circle is an essential crochet technique that helps eliminate holes in projects worked in the round. If you’re not familiar with it yet, I have a full blog post and a step-by-step video tutorial to guide you through the process.

Notes

  • This is an easy level pattern. This pattern uses a simple stitch pattern and basic shaping

  • This pattern is worked in un-joined rounds, use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.

  • The "right side" of amigurumi refers to the outward-facing side of the crocheted fabric, which is the side meant to be visible on the finished piece. When working in the round, the right side is the side facing you as you crochet.

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Pattern

Head

Top

Using a 5.25 mm crochet hook and 2 skeins of Fluffy day held double, make a magic circle, ch 1

Rnd 1 sc 6 times in magic circle (6 sts)

Rnd 2 sc 2 times in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 3 *sc, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (18 sts)

Rnd 4 *sc in next 2 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (24 sts)

Rnd 5 *sc in next 3 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (30 sts)

Rnd 6 *sc in next 4 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (36 sts)

Rnd 7 *sc in next 5 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (42 sts)

Rnd 8 *sc in next 6 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (48 sts)

Rnd 9 *sc in next 7 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (54 sts)

Rnd 10 *sc in next 8 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (60 sts)

Rnd 11 *sc in next 9 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (66 sts)

Rnd 12 *sc in next 10 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (72 sts)

Rnd 13 *sc in next 11 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (78 sts)

Rnd 14 *sc in next 12 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (84 sts)

Rnds 15 - 26 sc in each st around (84 sts)

Fasten off using an invisible join.

Bottom

Using a 5.25 mm crochet hook and 2 skeins of Fluffy day held double, make a magic circle, ch 1

Repeat Rnds 1 - 14 of the Top.

Fasten off using an invisible join.

Abdomen

Top

Using a 5.25 mm crochet hook and 2 skeins of Fluffy day held double, make a magic circle, ch 1

Rnd 1 sc 6 times in magic circle (6 sts)

Rnd 2 sc 2 times in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 3 *sc, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (18 sts)

Rnd 4 *sc in next 2 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (24 sts)

Rnd 5 *sc in next 3 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (30 sts)

Rnd 6 *sc in next 4 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (36 sts)

Rnd 7 *sc in next 5 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (42 sts)

Rnd 8 *sc in next 6 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (48 sts)

Rnd 9 *sc in next 7 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (54 sts)

Rnd 10 *sc in next 8 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (60 sts)

Rnd 11 *sc in next 9 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (66 sts)

Rnd 12 *sc in next 10 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (72 sts)

Rnd 13 *sc in next 11 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (78 sts)

Rnd 14 *sc in next 12 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (84 sts)

Rnd 15 *sc in next 13 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (90 sts)

Rnd 16 *sc in next 14 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (96 sts)

Rnd 17 *sc in next 15 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (102 sts)

Rnd 18 *sc in next 16 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (108 sts)

Rnds 19 - 32 sc in each st around (108 sts)

Fasten off using an invisible join.

Bottom

Using a 5.25 mm crochet hook and 2 skeins of Fluffy day held double, make a magic circle, ch 1

Repeat Rnds 1 - 18 of the Top.

Fasten off using an invisible join.

Legs (make 8)

Using a 5.25 mm crochet hook and 2 skeins of Fluffy day held double, make a magic circle, ch 1

Rnd 1 sc 6 times in magic circle (6 sts)

Rnd 2 sc 2 times in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 3 *sc 2 times in next st, sc in next 2 sts* rep around (16 sts)

Rnds 4 - 7 sc in each st around (16 sts)

The next rounds are short rows that create the spider’s heel.

Short Row 1 sc in first st, sl st in next st, ch 1, turn

Short Row 2 sk sl st, sc in next 6 sts, sl st in next st, ch 1, turn

Short Row 3 sk sl st, sc in next 6 sts, sc in ch 1 sp, sc in next st (this is a st from Rnd 7), sl st in next st, ch 1, turn

Short Row 4 sk sl st, sc in next 8 sts, sc in ch 1 sp, sc in next st (this is a st from Rnd 7), sl st, in next st, ch 1, turn

Rnd 8 sk sl st, sc in next 10 sts, sc in ch 1 sp, sc in next 4 sts (all 4 sts are from Rnd 7), sc in ch 1 sp (16 sts)

Rnds 9 - 38 sc in each st around (16 sts)

Fasten off using an invisible join. Leave a long tail for seaming.

Chelicerae (make 2)

Using a 5.25 mm crochet hook and 2 skeins of Fluffy day held double, make a magic circle, ch 1

Rnd 1 sc 6 times in magic circle (6 sts)

Rnd 2 sc 2 times in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 3 *sc 2 times in next st, sc in next 2 sts* rep around (16 sts)

Rnds 4 - 7 sc in each st around (16 sts)

The next rounds are short rows that create a turn in the chelicerae.

Short Row 1 sc in first st, sl st in next st, ch 1, turn

Short Row 2 sk sl st, sc in next 8 sts, sl st in next st, ch 1, turn

Short Row 3 sk sl st, sc in next 8 sts, sc in ch 1 sp, sc in next 6 sts, sc in ch 1 sp

Rnds 8 - 11 sc in each st around (16 sts)

Fasten off using an invisible join. Leave a long tail for seaming.

Eyes (make 2)

Using a 2.75 mm crochet hook and black embroidery yarn, make a magic circle, ch 1

Rnd 1 sc 6 times in magic circle (6 sts)

Rnd 2 sc 2 times in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 3 *sc, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (18 sts)

Rnd 4 *sc in next 2 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (24 sts)

Rnd 5 *sc in next 3 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (30 sts)

Rnd 6 *sc in next 4 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (36 sts)

Rnd 7 *sc in next 5 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around (42 sts)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to seam the eye onto the spider.

Eye Glimmer

Using a 2.75 mm crochet hook and white embroidery yarn, make a magic circle, ch 1

Rnd 1 sc 6 times in magic circle, sl st to first sc (6 sts)

Fasten off leaving a tail for seaming to the eye.

Use the tail of the eye glimmer to whip stitch it into the top right corner of the eye.

Assembly

Begin by seaming the head top and bottom together and the abdomen top and bottom together.

1. Place the bottom of the head inside the top of the head, ensuring that the "wrong" sides are together and will be inside the head after seaming.

Thread a tapestry needle with the same yarn used to create the head (held double) and insert needle through any stitch in the top of the head from the top down and into any stitch on the bottom of the head.

2. Repeat this process around the head: insert your needle into the next stitch on the top of the head from the top down, and then into the next stitch on the bottom of the head.

3. When you have approximately 10 stitches left unworked, stuff the head with Polyfil, or another stuffing material.

To prevent a "flying saucer" shape, lightly stuff the edges of the head first, then the center. Use more stuffing along the edges than in the center. Shape the head by squishing as you go, being careful not to overstuff.

4. When you reach the starting point, tie the ends of the yarn used for seaming together with a square knot, and weave in the ends.

Repeat this entire process to seam the top and bottom of the abdomen together.

Seaming the head and abdomen together

Next, seam the head and the abdomen together.

Thread a tapestry needle with the same yarn used to create the head and abdomen (held double). Begin seaming 10 rounds up from where the seams are that connect the top and bottom of the head and abdomen. Use a whip stitch and seam in a circle with an approximate diameter of 10 cm (4").

When you reach the starting point, tie the ends of the yarn used for seaming together with a square knot, and weave in the ends.

Seaming the legs

Stuff each leg with Polyfil or another stuffing material.

Fold the end of the leg so that all 16 stitches align, forming a straight edge that is 8 stitches wide.

Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn used for the legs (held double), and insert the needle through two stitches on the leg (two stitches that are aligned), then into the seam connecting the top and bottom of the head.

Begin at the rear of the head, near the seam joining the head and abdomen.

Seaming the eyes

Attach the eyes to the head using a stitch marker, positioning the top of each eye between rounds 11 and 12. Use extra stitch markers to hold the eyes in position.

Thread a tapestry needle with the long tail from the eyes. Seam the eyes onto the head by working into the back legs of the stitches (not the top loops). Work all the way around the eye. Once you return to the starting point, tie a knot and weave in the loose end.

Seaming the chelicerae

Stuff each chelicerae with Polyfil or another stuffing material.

Use stitch markers to position each chelicerae approximately 2 rounds below each eye.

Thread a tapestry needle with the long tail of the chelicerae. Insert the needle into a stitch on the head, then down into the top of a stitch at the base of the chelicerae. Continue this around the entire base of the chelicerae. When you return to the starting point, tie a square knot with the yarn ends and weave them in securely.

Share Your Work!

You’ve put in a lot of effort to create your Couch Potato Spider, and you should be proud of your achievement! Share your pictures using #stitchandhoundcrochet to connect with the community and receive support and feedback. Don’t forget to check out the social links below!

Pattern Support

If you have any questions or need a little extra help with your Couch Potato Spider, don’t hesitate to reach out! Join the Stitch and Hound Facebook group! for pattern support, tips, and a wonderful community of fellow crocheters. It’s the perfect place to ask questions, share your progress, and connect with others who are crafting along with you. I’m there to offer help and support every step of the way!

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