Cabin Slipper Socks

There is nothing better than slipping into a pair of cozy handmade socks after a long day. These Cabin Slipper Socks are warm, soft, and wonderfully simple to make, the kind of project that works up quickly and keeps toes happy all season long. With sizes from baby to adult XL, this pattern was designed so the whole family can enjoy a little extra comfort.

I am so excited to share that the Cabin Slipper Socks are featured in the Warm Your Feet Blog Hop! 🎉 That means you can grab the printable, ad-free PDF for free today only (the 26th) as part of the event. Click the download button below for your free PDF:

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Difficulty

This pattern is rated Easy. It features a simple stitch pattern with minimal shaping.

Sizes

This pattern is written for each size based on approximate U.S. shoe sizes. When in doubt, refer to the finished measurements and select a size with some negative ease (somewhat smaller than your actual foot measurements).

Baby: child size 0 - 4

Toddler: child 5 - 9

Child: child 10 - 13

Teen: youth 1 - 3

Small: women’s 4 - 6.5

Medium: women’s 7 - 9.5; men’s 6 - 8.5

Large: women’s 10 - 12.5; men’s 9 - 11.5

X-Large: men’s 12 - 14

Finished Measurments

Centimeters given as: baby (toddler) child (teen) small (medium) large (x-large)

sock circumference: 9 (12) 15 (18) 18 (21) 24 (27)

sock length: 12 (16) 20 (22) 24 (26) 28 (31)

Inches given as: baby (toddler) child (teen) small (medium) large (x-large)

sock circumference: 13.5 (5) 6 (7) 7 (8.5) 9.5 (10.5)

sock length: 4.5 (6) 7.5 (8.5) 9.5 (10) 11 (12)

Yarn

You will need the following amounts of a DK weight (3) yarn for both socks:

Baby: 20 g (60 m / 50 yd)

Toddler: 30 g (105 m / 90 yd)

Child: 35 g (130 m / 105 yd)

Teen: 45 g (160 m / 135 yd)

Small: 50 g (180 m / 150 yd)

Medium: 65 g (220 m / 180 yd)

Large: 75 g (270 m / 220 yd)

X-Large: 90 g (320 m / 260 yd)

Sample pictured was made using Lion Brand Ice Cream Yarn in the color “coffee”, a 100% acrylic, DK weight (3) yarn that contains 360 m (394 yd) per 100g (3.5 oz)

While I love the self stripping yarn by Lion Brand, here are a few great alternatives:

1. Knit Picks Swish DK

• Why it works: Soft, durable, and smooth. Perfect for wearable cozy socks that hold up to wear.

• Price point: Mid-range, great value for quality DK weight without breaking the bank.

  2. Yarn Citizen Harmony DK Yarn

• Why it works: Plant-based cotton blend gives breathability and softness while still offering structure and stitch definition.

• Price point: Moderate, slightly higher than basic DK, but worth it for natural fiber comfort

  3. Brava Baby DK Yarn

• Why it works: Soft acrylic with baby-friendly feel. Ideal if you want easy care or are making socks for kids.

• Price point: Budget-friendly, one of the more affordable DK/medium options that still works nicely for socks.

Hook Size and Notions

• 4.5 mm crochet hook

• 4 stitch markers

• Tapestry needle

• Scissors

Pattern Abbreviations

ch(s) - chain(s)

dc - double crochet

FPDC - front post double crochet

PM - place marker

rep - repeat

rnd - round

sc - single crochet

sc2tog - single crochet 2 together

sc3tog - single crochet 3 together

sk - skip

sl st - slip stitch

SM(s) - stitch marker(s)

sp - space

st(s) - stitch(es)

tch(s) - turning chain(s)

yo - yarn over

** - repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed

( ) - work a group of stitches all in the same stitch or space

(These are US crochet terms from the Craft Yarn Council)

Gauge

20 stitches and 25 rows in a 10 cm (4") square.

Note: Because this is a small project, working a separate gauge swatch is not necessary. Work several rounds of the pattern and then measure to check gauge.

Click HERE to learn more about gauge.

Special Stitches

Invisible Join

1. Cut the working end of your yarn and pull it up and through the last stitch that was worked.

2. Thread the tail of yarn through a tapestry needle.

3. Skip the first stitch, insert your tapestry needle into the second stitch from front to back through both loops of the stitch, pull yarn through.

4. Insert your tapestry needle from front to back into the back loop only of the stitch the yarn is originating from, pull yarn through.

5. Securely weave in your ends.

I have full video tutorial and blog post on how to create an invisible join.

How to Make a Magic Circle

The magic circle is an essential crochet technique that helps eliminate holes in projects worked in the round. If you’re not familiar with it yet, I have a full blog post and a step-by-step video tutorial to guide you through the process.

How to Crochet Even Circles

For simplicity, this pattern uses stacked increases in the round. When increases are stacked directly on top of each other, the sock toe may develop slight points. To avoid this, vary the number of starting stitches in each round before the first increase.

I have a full blog post and video tutorial to guide you through the process.

Video Tutorial

Notes

• This sock is worked from the toe up in the round. The heel is added after the foot is complete using an afterthought heel.

• This pattern is worked in un-joined rounds, use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.

• A chain 3 at the beginning of a round counts as a double crochet stitch.

• PM (place marker): Place a stitch marker in the stitch just before the instruction marked PM

• Pattern is written as follows: baby (toddler) child (teen) small (medium) large (x-large)

• Stitch counts are given at the end of each row as follows: {baby, toddler, child, teen, small, medium, large, x-large}

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Pattern

Toe

Using a 4.5 mm crochet hook, make a magic circle

Rnd 1 ch 1, sc 6 times in center of magic circle, pull to close magic circle {6 sts}

Rnd 2 sc 2 times in each st around {12 sts}

Rnd 3 *sc, sc 2 times in next st* rep around {18 sts}

Size baby continue pattern with “Foot.”

Rnd 4 *sc, sc, sc 2 times in next st* rep around {24 sts}

Size toddler continue pattern with “Foot.”

Rnd 5 *sc in next 3 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around {30 sts}

Size child continue pattern with “Foot.”

Rnd 6 *sc in next 4 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around {36 sts}

Sizes teen and small continue pattern with “Foot.”

Rnd 7 *sc in next 5 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around {42 sts}

Size medium continue pattern with “Foot.”

Rnd 8 *sc in next 6 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around {48 sts}

Size large continue pattern with “Foot.”

Rnd 9 *sc in next 7 sts, sc 2 times in next st* rep around {54 sts}

Size x-large continue pattern with “Foot.”

Foot

Rnds 4 (5) 6 (7) 7 (8) 9 (10) - 19 (26) 32 (37) 38 (40) 44 (49) sc in each st around {18, 24, 30, 36, 36, 42, 48, 54 sts}

Sizes small, medium, large, and x-large continue with “Gussets.”

Rnd 20 (27) 33 (38) X (X) X (X) sc in first st, (sc, PM) in next st, sc in next 8 (11) 14 (17) X (X) X (X) sts, (sc, PM) in next st, sc to first st of rnd {18, 24, 30, 36, X, X, X, X sts}

Sizes baby, toddler, child, and teen continue pattern with “Heel Opening.”

Gussets

Rnd X (X) X (X) 39 (41) 45 (50) (sc, sc, PM, sc) in first st, sc in next X (X) X (X) 17 (20) 23 (26) sts, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in next st, sc to first st of rnd {X, X, X, X, 40, 46, 52, 58 sts}

Rnd X (X) X (X) 40 (42) 46 (51) sc in each st around, placing the SM(s) back in the marked sts as you work {X, X, X, X, 40, 46, 52, 58 sts}

Rnd X (X) X (X) 41 (43) 47 (52) sc in first st, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {X, X, X, X, 44, 50, 56, 62 sts}

Rnd X (X) X (X) 42 (44) 48 (53) sc in each st around, placing the SM(s) back in the marked sts as you work {X, X, X, X, 44, 50, 56, 62 sts}

Rnd X (X) X (X) 42 (44) 48 (53) sc to first SM, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {X, X, X, X, 48, 54, 60, 66 sts}

Rnd X (X) X (X) 43 (45) 49 (54) sc in each st around, placing the SM(s) back in the marked sts as you work {X, X, X, X, 48, 54, 60, 66 sts}

Sizes small, medium, large, and x-large continue pattern with “Heel Opening.”

Heel Opening

Rnd 21 (28) 34 (39) 44 (46) 50 (55) sc to first SM, sc in st containing SM, PM, ch 8 (11) 14 (17) 23 (26) 29 (32), sk 8 (11) 14 (17) 23 (26) 29 (32) sts, sc in st containing next SM, PM, sc to first st of rnd {10, 13, 16, 19, 25, 28, 31, 34 sts + 8, 11, 14, 17, 23, 26, 29, 32 chs}

Rnd 22 (29) 35 (40) 45 (47) 51 (56) sc to first SM, sc in st containing SM, sc in next 8 (11) 14 (17) 23 (26) 29 (32) chs working through the back loop of the chs, sc in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {18, 24, 30, 36, 48, 54, 60, 66 sts}

Rnds 23 (30) 36 (41) 46 (48) 52 (57) - 24 (31) 37 (42) 48 (50) 54 (59) sc in each st around {18, 24, 30, 36, 48, 54, 60, 66 sts}

All sizes continue pattern with “Cuff.”

Cuff

Rnd 1 sl st in first st of rnd, ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st in top of ch-3 {18, 24, 30, 36, 48, 54, 60, 66 sts now and throughout cuff unless otherwise stated}

Rnd 2 ch 3, FPDC in next 2 sts, *dc, FPDC in next 2 sts* rep around, sl st in top of ch-3

Rnd 3 ch 3, sk next st, FPDC in next st, FPDC in skipped st, *dc, sk next st, FPDC in next st, FPDC in skipped st* rep around, sl st in top of ch-3

Rnd 4 ch 3, FPDC in next 2 sts, *dc, FPDC in next 2 sts* rep around, sl st in top of ch-3

Rnd 5 ch 3, FPDC in next 2 sts, *dc, FPDC in next 2 sts* rep around, sl st in top of ch-3

Rnd 6 rep rnd 3

Rnd 7 rep rnd 4

Size baby Rnd 8 ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first st, fasten off using an invisible join and continue pattern with “Heel.”

Rnd 8 rep rnd 5

Rnd 9 rep rnd 3

Rnds 10 - 11 rep rnds 4 and 5

Rnd 12 rep rnd 3

Rnd 13 rep rnd 4

Sizes toddler and child Rnd 14 ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first st, fasten off using an invisible join and continue pattern with “Heel.”

Rnd 14 rep rnd 5

Rnd 15 rep rnd 3

Rnd 16 rep rnd 4

Sizes teen, small, medium, large, and x-large Rnd 17 ch 1, *sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog* rep around, sl st to first st, fasten off using an invisible join and continue pattern with “Heel.” {X, X, X, X, 40, 45, 50, 55 sts}

Heel

Place a stitch marker in the first and last stitch of both the top and bottom sections of the heel. The top and bottom sections should each have 8 (11) 14 (17) 23 (26) 29 (32) stitches, including the stitches with the markers. You should have a total of 4 stitch markers placed.

Rnd 1

Step 1: With the toes of the sock pointing toward you, start at the right stitch marker of the top heel section. Insert your hook into this stitch, yo, pull up a loop (1 loop on hook)

Step 2: insert your hook into the side of the heel through a few strands of yarn (not an actual stitch), yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook)

Step 3: Insert your hook into the stitch containing the next stitch marker (this will be on the bottom section of the heel), yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)

Step 4: yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook

Step 5: PM in the stitch that was just made

sc to next SM

Step 1: Insert your hook into the stitch containing the next SM, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook)

Step 2: insert your hook into the side of the heel through a few strands of yarn (not an actual stitch), yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)

Step 3: Insert your hook into the stitch containing the next stitch marker (this will be on the top section of the heel), yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook)

Step 4: yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook

Step 5: PM in the stitch that was just made

SC to the st before the next SM {14, 20, 26, 32, 44, 50, 56, 62 sts}

Rnd 2 sc3tog, PM, sc to the stitch before the next SM, sc3tog, PM, sc to the stitch before the next SM {10, 16, 22, 28, 40, 46, 52, 58 sts}

Note: when you sc3tog, you should be working into the stitch before the stitch containing the SM, the stitch containing the SM, and the stitch after the stitch containing the SM

Rnds 3 - 4 (4) 5 (6) 8 (9) 10 (11) rep rnd 2, on final rnd, sl st into the stitch before the next SM {st count decreases by 4 each rnd, you will end with 2, 8, 10, 12, 16, 18, 20, 22 sts}

Fasten off leaving a tail for seaming.

Fold the heel flat so that the seam runs horizontally (from left to right, not top to bottom). Using the tail from fastening off, whip stitch the heel closed, matching each stitch on either side of the seam for a neat finish.

Share Your Work!

You’ve put in a lot of effort to create your Cabin Slipper Socks, and you should be proud of your achievement! Share your pictures using #stitchandhoundcrochet to connect with the community and receive support and feedback. Don’t forget to check out the social links below!

Pattern Support

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