Crochet Ruffle Socks Pattern (Baby to Adult Sizes)

Looking for the perfect crochet socks pattern that’s cozy, customizable, and cute enough for everyday wear or gifting? The Frilly Feet Socks crochet pattern has you covered—literally! This free pattern includes sizes from baby to adult XL and offers two cuff styles: a sweet, ruffled top for a whimsical look or a classic cuff for a timeless finish. Plus, the sock height is fully customizable, so you can make them ankle, mid-calf, or tall—just the way you like them. Whether you’re crafting for yourself, a little one, or making a cozy set for gifting, these crochet socks are as fun to make as they are to wear!

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Video Tutorial

Difficulty

This is an Intermediate level pattern. The socks use a simple stitch pattern, but involve some shaping throughout. A detailed photo and video tutorial is included, so a confident beginner should be able to complete them without trouble.

Finished Measurements

For simplicity, the pattern sizes are labeled as: Baby (Toddler) Child (Teen) Small (Medium) Large (X-Large).

Below is a general guide to the US shoe sizes each category should fit. However, it’s best to rely on the actual sock measurements to ensure the best fit for your foot. When in doubt, size down—socks are designed to stretch and fit snugly.

Baby = child 0-4

Toddler = child 5-9

Child = child 10-13

Teen = youth 1-3

Small = youth 4-6; women 4-6.5

Medium = women 7-9.5; men 6-8.5

Large = women 10-12.5; men 9-11.5

X-Large = men 12-14

Centimeters given as: Baby (Toddler) Child (Teen) Small (Medium) Large (X-Large)

Sock Circumference: 11 (12) 15 (17) 20 (23) 25 (28)

Sock Length: 12 (16) 18 (22) 24 (26) 28 (31)

Inches given as: Baby (Toddler) Child (Teen) Small (Medium) Large (X-Large)

Sock circumference: 4.5 (5) 6 (6.5) 7.5 (9) 10 (11)

Sock Length: 4.5 (6) 7 (8.5) 9.5 (10) 11 (12)

Sizing follows Craft Yarn Council standards

Yarn

For two socks you will need the following amounts of a sock/fingering weight (1) yarn, given as: Baby (Toddler) Child (Teen) Small (Medium) Large (X-Large)

meters: 100 (140) 190 (220) 270 (310) 370 (440)

yards: 110 (150) 200 (230) 290 (340) 400 (480)

Toddler sample (green) was made using Made by Hailey Bailey yarn on a classic sock base in the color “tree swallow.” Made by Hailey Bailey classic sock base is a 75% superwash merino and 25% nylon blend, sock/fingering weight (1) yarn that contains 423 meters (463 yards) per 100 grams (3.5 oz).

Child sample (pink) was made using Sewrella Yarn on a Classic Sock base in the color "theater." Sewrella Yarn classic sock base is a 100% superwash merino wool, sock/fingering weight (1) yarn that contains 437 meters (400 yards) per 100 grams (3.5 oz).

Small sample (grey) was made using Midnight Cravings Yarn Company yarn on light sock base in the color “barn board.” Midnight Cravings light sock base is an 85% merino wool and 15% nylon blend sock/fingering weight (1) yarn that contains 400 meters (437 yards) per 100 grams (3.5 oz)

Note: The yarn amounts listed are based on an ankle-height sock. If you plan to make a taller sock, be sure to account for additional meters/yardage.

These yarns are also great options for the Hoppy Hands Mittens:

Stroll by Knit Picks

• Fiber: 75% Superwash Merino Wool, 25% Nylon

• Why it works: Soft, durable, and affordable with tons of color options. Great stitch definition for ruffles and ribbing.

• Bonus: Machine washable!

Knit Picks Hawthorne Fingering

• Fiber: 80% Superwash Fine Highland Wool, 20% Polyamide

• Why it works: A bit more structured than Stroll, Hawthorne is perfect for socks that need durability and stitch definition. The tonal and hand-painted colorways add a gorgeous pop to both the ruffle and classic cuff options.

• Bonus: Slightly thicker than typical sock yarn for extra warmth and cozy comfort.

Hook Size and Notions

• 2.75 mm crochet hook

• 4 Stitch markers

• Tapestry needle

• Scissors

Pattern Abbreviations

BLO - back loop only

BLOtr - back loop only treble crochet

ch(s) – chain(s)

dc - double crochet

FLO - front loop only

FLOtr - front loop only treble crochet

PM - place marker

rep – repeat

rnd – round

sc - single crochet

sc2tog - single crochet 2 together

sc3tog - single crochet 3 together

sk - skip

sl st – slip stitch

SM - stitch marker

sp - space

st(s) – stitch(s)

yo - yarn over

( ) - work instructions within parentheses all in the same stitch or space

* * – repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed

(These are US crochet terms from the Craft Yarn Council)

Special Stitches & Techniques

Invisible Join

1. Cut the working end of your yarn and pull it up and through the last stitch that was worked.

2. Thread the tail of yarn through a tapestry needle.

3. Skip the first stitch, insert your tapestry needle into the second stitch from front to back through both loops of the stitch, pull yarn through.

4. Insert your tapestry needle from front to back into the back loop only of the stitch the yarn is originating from, pull yarn through.

5. Securely weave in your ends.

I have full video tutorial and blog post on how to create an invisible join.

Notes

• Pattern is written as: Baby (Toddler) Child (Teen) Small (Medium) Large (X-Large)

• Stitch counts are given at the end of each round as {Baby, Toddler, Child, Teen, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large sts}.

• For the ruffle top and non-ruffle top, chain 4 or 3 at the beginning of a round counts as a treble crochet or a double crochet stitch, respectively.

• When you see 'PM' in the pattern, place the stitch marker in the stitch you just completed, right before the 'PM' instruction.

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Pattern

Toe

Using a 2.75 mm crochet hook, ch 7 (7) 7 (7) 9 (9) 9 (9)

Rnd 1 working in the back humps of the chain, sc in second ch from hook, PM, sc in next 4 (4) 4 (4) 6 (6) 6 (6) chs, (sc, PM, sc, sc, PM) all in next ch, turn your work to crochet on the opposite side of the ch, sc in next 4 (4) 4 (4) 6 (6) 6 (6) chs, (sc, PM, sc) in last ch {14, 14, 14, 14, 18, 18, 18, 18 sts}

Rnd 2 (sc, PM, sc) in first st, sc to next SM, (sc, sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to first SM {18, 18, 18, 18, 22, 22, 22, 22 sts}

Rnd 3 rep rnd 2 {22, 22, 22, 22, 26, 26, 26, 26 sts}

Rnd 4 (sc, sc, PM) in first st, sc to next SM, (sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to first SM {26, 26, 26, 26, 30, 30, 30, 30 sts}

Rnd 5 rep rnd 2 {30, 30, 30, 30, 34, 34, 34, 34 sts}

Size Baby continue following pattern with “Foot”

Rnd 6 rep rnd 2 {X, 34, 34, 34, 38, 38, 38, 38 sts}

Size Toddler continue following pattern with “Foot”

Rnd 7 rep rnd 4 {X, X, 38, 38, 42, 42, 42, 42 sts}

Rnd 8 rep rnd 2 {X, X, 42, 42, 46, 46, 46, 46 sts}

Size Child continue following pattern with “Foot”

Rnd 9 rep rnd 2 {X, X, X, 46, 50, 50, 50, 50 sts}

Size Teen continue following pattern with “Foot”

Rnd 10 rep rnd 4 {X, X, X, X, 54, 54, 54, 54 sts}

Size Small continue following pattern with “Foot”

Rnd 11 rep rnd 2 {X, X, X, X, X, 58, 58, 58 sts}

Rnd 12 rep rnd 2 {X, X, X, X, X, 62, 62, 62 sts}

Size Medium continue following pattern with “Foot”

Rnd 13 rep rnd 4 {X, X, X, X, X, X, 66, 66 sts}

Rnd 14 rep rnd 2 {X, X, X, X, X, X, 70, 70 sts}

Size Large continue following pattern with “Foot”

Rnd 15 rep rnd 2 {X, X, X, X, X, X, X, 74 sts}

Rnd 16 rep rnd 4 {X, X, X, X, X, X, X, 78 sts}

Size X-Large continue following pattern with “Foot”

Foot

Rnds 6 (7) 9 (10) 11 (13) 15 (17) - 19 (28) 31 (38) 40 (42) 46 (51) sc in each st around {30, 34, 42, 46, 54, 62, 70, 78 sts}

Gussets

Now, you'll divide the sock into the front and back sections. The back section will become an opening for the afterthought heel. The left and right sides of the sock will have gussets (increases) to improve fit and comfort.

Due to seam migration, the first stitch of the round may shift to the top of the sock. To ensure the gussets are correctly positioned on the left and right sides, fold the sock in half along the toe line so it lies flat. Place a stitch marker in the outermost stitches on both the left and right sides, making sure there are 14 (16) 20 (22) 26 (30) 34 (38) stitches between them.

Rnd 20 (29) 32 (39) 41 (43) 47 (52) sc to first SM, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {34, 38, 46, 50, 58, 66, 74, 82 sts}

Rnd 21 (30) 33 (40) 42 (44) 48 (53) sc to first SM, (sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {34, 38, 46, 50, 58, 66, 74, 82 sts}

Rnd 22 (31) 34 (41) 43 (45) 49 (54) sc to first SM, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {38, 42, 50, 54, 62, 70, 78, 86 sts}

Rnd 23 (32) 35 (42) 44 (46) 50 (55) sc to first SM, (sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {38, 42, 50, 54, 62, 70, 78, 86 sts}

Sizes Baby and Toddler, continue following pattern with “Cuff”

Rnd X (X) 36 (43) 45 (47) 51 (56) sc to first SM, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {X, X, 54, 58, 66, 74, 82, 90 sts}

Rnd X (X) 37 (44) 46 (48) 52 (57) sc to first SM, (sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {X, X, 54, 58, 66, 74, 82, 90 sts}

Sizes Child and Teen, continue following pattern with “Cuff”

Rnd X (X) X (X) 47 (49) 53 (58) sc to first SM, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, sc, PM, sc) in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {X, X, X, X, 70, 78, 86, 94 sts}

Rnd X (X) X (X) 48 (50) 54 (59) sc to first SM, (sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to next SM, (sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {X, X, X, X, 70, 78, 86, 94 sts}

Sizes Small, Medium, Large, and X-Large, continue following pattern with “Cuff”

Cuff

Rnd 24 (33) 38 (45) 49 (51) 55 (60) sc to first SM, (sc, PM) in st containing SM, ch 18 (20) 26 (28) 34 (38) 42 (46), sk 18 (20) 26 (28) 34 (38) 42 (46) sts, (sc, PM) in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {38, 42, 54, 58, 70, 78, 86, 94 sts}

Rnd 25 (34) 39 (46) 50 (52) 56 (61) sc to first SM, sc in st containing SM, sc in the back hump of the next 18 (20) 26 (28) 34 (38) 42 (46) chs, sc in st containing SM, sc to first st of rnd {38, 42, 54, 58, 70, 78, 86, 94 sts}

The next 8 rounds will shape the sock with decreases. After completing these rounds, your sock will be ankle height. You can stop here, or keep single crocheting in each stitch around until your sock reaches the height you prefer.

Feel free to add additional decreases within these extra rounds if needed for a more customized fit.

When your sock cuff is complete, do not fasten off, continue following pattern with either the ruffle or non-ruffle top.

Continue following pattern for your size.

Baby

Rnds 26 - 33 sc in each st around, sc2tog once anywhere in rnd {st count decreases by 1 each rnd, you will end with 30 sts}

Toddler

Rnds 35 - 42 sc in each st around, sc2tog once anywhere in rnd {st count decreases by 1 each rnd, you will end with 34 sts}

Child

Rnd 40 sc in each st around, sc2tog twice anywhere in rnd {52 sts}

Rnd 41 sc in each st around, sc2tog once anywhere in rnd {51 sts}

Rnds 42 - 47 rep rnds 40 - 41 {st count decreases by 2 each even rnd and by 1 each odd rnd, you will end with 42 sts}

Teen

Rnd 47 sc in each st around, sc2tog twice anywhere in rnd {56 sts}

Rnd 48 sc in each st around, sc2tog once anywhere in rnd {55 sts}

Rnds 49 - 54 rep rnds 47 - 48 {st count decreases by 2 each odd rnd and by 1 each even rnd, you will end with 46 sts}

Small

Rnds 51 - 58 sc in each st around, sc2tog twice anywhere in rnd {st count decreases by 2 each rnd, you will end with 54 sts}

Medium

Rnds 53 - 60 sc in each st around, sc2tog twice anywhere in rnd {st count decreases by 2 each rnd, you will end with 62 sts}

Large

Rnds 57 - 64 sc in each st around, sc2tog twice anywhere in rnd {st count decreases by 2 each rnd, you will end with 70 sts}

X-Large

Rnds 62 - 69 sc in each st around, sc2tog twice anywhere in rnd {st count decreases by 2 each rnd, you will end with 78 sts}

Ruffle Top

Rnd 1 sl st into the FLO of the first st of rnd, ch 4, FLOtr 2 more times in same st, *FLOtr 2 times in next st, FLOtr 3 times in next st* rep around, FLOtr 2 times in final st, sl st into top of initial ch 4 {75, 85, 105, 115, 135, 155, 175, 195 sts}

Fasten off using an invisible join.

We just finished working in the FLO of the last round. Now, join a new strand of yarn in the BLO of any stitch from that same round, and continue working in BLO.

Rnd 2 Join a new yarn in the BLO of any st from the same rnd that was just worked, ch 4, BLOtr 2 more times in the same st, *BLOtr 2 times in next st, BLOtr 3 times in next st* rep around, BLOtr 2 times in final st, sl st into top of initial ch 4 {75, 85, 105, 115, 135, 155, 175, 195 sts}

Fasten off using an invisible join.

Non-Ruffle Top

Rnd 1 sl st into first st of rnd, ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st into top of intial ch 3 {30, 34, 42, 46, 54, 62, 70, 78 sts}

Fasten off using an invisible join.

Heel

Place a stitch marker in the first and last stitch of both the top and bottom sections of the heel. Each section should have 18 (20) 26 (28) 34 (38) 42 (46) stitches, including the stitches with the markers. You should have a total of 4 stitch markers placed.

Rnd 1

Step 1: With the toes of the sock pointing toward you, start at the right stitch marker of the top heel section. Insert your hook into this stitch, yo, pull up a loop (1 loop on hook)

Step 2: insert your hook into the side of the heel—through a few strands of yarn (not an actual stitch), yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook)

Step 3: Insert your hook into the stitch containing the next stitch marker (this will be on the bottom section of the heel), yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)

Step 4: yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook

Step 5: PM in the stitch that was just made

sc to next SM

Step 1: Insert your hook into the stitch containing the next SM, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook)

Step 2: insert your hook into the side of the heel—through a few strands of yarn (not an actual stitch), yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)

Step 3: Insert your hook into the stitch containing the next stitch marker (this will be on the top section of the heel), yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook)

Step 4: yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook

Step 5: PM in the stitch that was just made

SC to the st before the next SM {34, 38, 50, 54, 66, 74, 82, 90 sts}

Rnd 2 sc3tog, PM, sc to the stitch before the next SM, sc3tog, PM, sc to the stitch before the next SM {30, 34, 46, 50, 62, 70, 78, 86 sts}

Note: when you sc3tog, you should be working into the stitch before the stitch containing the SM, the stitch containing the SM, and the stitch after the stitch containing the SM

Rnds 3 - 7 (8) 10 (11) 13 (15) 17 (19) rep rnd 2, on final rnd, sl st into the stitch before the next SM {st count decreases by 4 each rnd, you will end with 10, 10, 14, 14, 18, 18, 18, 18 sts}

Fasten off leaving a tail for seaming.

Fold the heel flat so that the seam runs horizontally (from left to right, not top to bottom). Using the tail from fastening off, whip stitch the heel closed, matching each stitch on either side of the seam for a neat finish.

Share Your Work!

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Pattern Support

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